Gwangju: A symbol of the Korean fight for democracy

The date is May 18, 1980, location Gwangju in Korea's Southern Jeolla Province. A student led uprising against President Chun Doo-Hwan's newly instilled regime is taking place. The people were fighting for democracy, their universities had been closed and the press suppressed. In response the army brutally beat, raped and killed many revolters, crushing the rebellion. 44 years later as I stand in the May 18 Democracy Square, I realized that the memory, spirit and sacrifice's of that day live on.

Downtown Gwangju, isn't particularly remarkable, in the sense that there are similar areas like this in other Korean cities. Bright, noisy, narrow streets, full of pedestrians, restaurants and shops. There is a youthful feel to the energy and atmosphere here. This is the scene where I would meet Suchang. We had first met two years ago at a hostel in Hongdae. Suchang teaches Korean language and is currently pursuing a degree in AI, which he feels, poses a future threat to his job security.

His girlfriend Eunu, a fellow Korean teacher, also came along, eager to speak English, having recently come back from a trip to Europe. I was happy that I had friends who were Gwangju natives to show me around. Our first point of call was to catch up over dinner where we had an assortment of side dishes grilled pork, belly, stews and cold noodles.

After our feast, Eunu and Suchang wanted to take me to an "important" place commemorating a revolt against the government. It being Saturday, the streets were animated, noisy and the night sticky humid. We got to a street intersection where I could see an open place with a large bell and fountain in the distance. The May 18 Democracy Square. Underground in the subway station, illustrations of revolutionists and tanks adorned the walls, I could feel that something significant had happened here.

At the square the scene that met us was pretty peaceful. You had a lot of couples and families who were out and about. There was also a large contigent of middle school boys in what looked like bike gangs. Suchang said that they were neither "good or bad guys" I guess in today's language what the kids call Non Playable Characters (NPCs)

While the square is where the clash between the army and citizens happened, the Jeonil Building 245 next to it, was heavily damaged, but has since been renovated. The Gwangju Democracy Bell also catches the eye, on special occasions it is rung 33 times to promote prosperity and peace in all of Korea.

I was content enough to stroll around and contemplate on the history of the square, but all of a sudden, the water fountain, which wasn't active jetted on and their was an announcement through a PA system that a dedication to May 18 was about to start. All of a sudden The fountain's water jets higher into the sky and a big projecter projects images onto it. At the same time, what looked like huge metalic arms holding red dagger sized-lightsabers rose, from the fountain and moved in a way that was beautifully choreographed with the images and music. It was amazing.

After the light show, Eunu, Suchang and I winded the evening down at a cafe and said our goodbye's before the buses stopped running. The next day which was a Sunday, I spent alone exploring the area near the square. A place of particular interest is the Asia Cultural Centre, a huge complex which has various art exhibitions, theatre, research spaces and library.

Over 2000 people are recorded as dead in the May 18 uprising, as I wondered around the neighbourhoods, I pondered how their souls look upon present day Gwangju natives reality: A bustling metropolice with an excellent transport system, multiple restaurants, a vibrant art scene, universities and minimal crime free society. Was this what they were fighting for? Is this democracy?